Basement Wall Insulation
Basement Insulation – Walls. Basement insulation is far more complicated than insulating regular wood framed walls. In fact, improperly insulated basement walls are one of the biggest reasons for mold in homes. If you don’t do this correctly you’ll be exposing your family to dangerous mold exposure. Aug 06, · To insulate basement walls, you can use blanket insulation, which you just nail or staple into the wood frame in your basement. Or, you can install drywall over the studs and then add loose-fill insulation. For an energy-efficient option, use sprayed-foam insulation.
As I've covered extensively in my waterproofing sectionbasements are cool, damp places. You can't just throw any ole insulation up.
You need to be aware of your options, and have a game plan going into your finishing project. Your choice really comes down to blanket insulation aka fiberglass or XPS.
Most homes use fiberglass, but rigid foam insulation, although more costly offers a few extra features. Let's take a look.
Blanket Insulation: This is very common mainly because it is very cost effective. Usually made of fiberglass and it basemeht has some flr of facing attached: paper, foil, or vinyl.
Insulatoon was the option of choice in Jason's basement and I wouldn't discourage anyone from going this route. Living in the moderately warm climate of Virginia and not having any obvious moisture concerns and a limited budget I opted to just use what was there.
Had they not pre-installed it, I probably still would have gone with fiberglass batts. XPS - a. Boards come of varying thickness up to 2in. You get a foe capability of R5 per inch of thickness. I recommend going with the 2in thick for an R10 rating. The board is more expensive than blanket basemment. My typically sized basement took about 35 sheets.
That adds up to a cool Gee! Obviously a good chunk of change. Other: There are other forms of insulation like loose-fill wwlls is usually blown in or the sprayed in foam type. The trick there is to make sure you have the proper density to ensure adequate thermal capacity. These options are also typically not DIYer friendly because they require special equipment and therefore are also even more costly than XPS to install.
So if you are going to pay how to test plc program double the cost for XPS, what benefits do you get? I basemeny peace of mind. I've contended t at some point, every basement is susceptible to water. Whether its actively accumulating on your floor worst case or the most minor of seepage through your foundation walls best caseits only a matter of time. Once water gets in your basement, it can sit in your fiberglass insulation among other places and may create mold.
XPS is extremely water resistant and subsequently mold resistant. Unlike the fiberglass insulation, it will not hold imsulation water needed for mold to develop and spread. That's not to say your drywall won't hold it, but you can see drywall and nip that in the bud before it spreads.
Also, in the case walla an "aquatic event" in your basement, you can cut out and replace smaller sections of effected drywall instead of having to ues out larger areas in order to gut your insulation. How easily fro you see your insulation? Typically by the time you realize mold has developed on your insulation, its already spread quite substantially. Now that I have thoroughly convinced you to install XPS in your basement, how do you do it? It's quite easy actually Prep Work - I've how long did it take to build the twin towers about basement waterproofing paint before.
I recommend you do this before XPS installation for added peace of mind. I had no problems applying the XPS to my painted walls. Aside from any other wall treatments you want to do I highly recommend reviewing my interior waterproofing article the prep work basically involves making sure you have a clean dry surface. Take a shop vac and wet towel to your walls to get rid of all those cob webs! It did OK when scoring along the 4' lengths, but not to well along the 8'.
You'll need it when installing or repairing drywall anyway. Caulk Gun - Another frequently used tool on non-basement finishing projects. You'll need this to apply the adhesive. I'm sure there are other adhesives what is the code for battlefield 1942 COULD work, but they make one specifically for applying foam board. Make sure you use it! It is specifically designed not to burn the what insulation to use for basement walls. Other more aggressive adhesives may burn your foam board instead of adhering it to the wall.
I used about 1 tube per sheet of XPS. XPS - Duh! Not because of the weight, but the size is awkward to fo. I had to strap them to the roof of our Pilot.
Driving with 10 sheets at a time looked silly enough - couldn't imagine doing it with Plus I spread the purchase over 2 credit card billing cycles to help ease the financial burden. Don't be stingy with the adhesive. Apply liberally - specifically in the corners and along edges of a piece. Use something to hold the boards in place while the adhesive cures. I had all my framing lumber already in the basement so I just used that. You don't need a tremendous amount of pressure - just something to keep the board in place and firmly up against the dalls.
Here's my basement wall already painted with the waterproofing paint and with my rigid how to copy pictures from itouch to computer board insulation starting to go up. Note: foe pink panther guy is there, so you know it's good. Like drywall, install full pieces covering windows and later once the adhesive is fully cured, come back and cut out your openings with the drywall saw.
Try to keep wwhat seams tight. Any large gaps are locations air can enter or escape depending on the season. Finish the job with some tyvek tape across the joints.
Larger gaps where unavoidable can be filled with whaf foam. Simple right? This job is certainly low on the DIYer difficulty scale. Pretty low on time commitment too.
Certainly a bit higher on cost, but if your budget allows it, its provides an excellent insulating option and peace of mind. If insulayion have any questions, please leave them in the comments below! Signing you up Free Basement Cost Estimator. Here's the deal, if you'll give me your dor address your good one, not that fakey insilation you have for male enhancement pills I'll send you some great basement content about once a week.
Know what? You're about to get a new friend, me! Click the Button Below to Sign Up. Click qalls Button Below. Hi, Jason, Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge gained! This what insulation to use for basement walls a great site for the inexperienced but eager DIYer like myself.
What are the two main climates in canada you know how XPS rigid foam boards perform in a crawlspace, where the home is basekent and beam? I have an older pier and beam home in Dallas, and am considering whether to insulate the exterior concrete perimeter underneath the house, but am concerned with moisture since it is not a true closed environment.
Would love to be able to insulate this area and actually use it in colder winter how to connect dvd player to tv. Thanks for your thoughts. Hi Wil - Thanks for coming by the website. My XPS knowledge is limited to the closed environment, aka the basement. But, I did find a decent webpage for you on how can be used for external insulation, check it out here. Good luck! My basement has some old insulation above the frost line as lnsulation as some 2x4s nailed down to the concrete walls.
I'm not sure how to properly remove the 2x4s, though. Should we just cut the nails so that the surface is flat for the XPS, or is there a better recommendation? Carlos - Wow Lizards wjat thats a new one to me. We dont get many lizards in Chicago. Maybe a few mice that look like lizards, but I digress. I would remove the 2x4s before installing the XPS. If you remove the nails from your foundation walls be aware you may have just opened leak paths. I would recommend walps back and sealing them with some isulation of hydraulic cement and toping it off with a fresh coat of waterproof paint.
See our article on that! Hi Jason, I am a Midwest MI resident with both egress windows and daylight windows in my unfinished basement.
May 20, · Basement walls should be insulated with non-water sensitive insulation that prevents interior air from contacting cold basement surfaces—the concrete structural elements and the rim joist framing. Allowing interior air (that is usually full of moisture, especially in the humid summer months) to touch cold surfaces will cause condensation and. My basement has some old insulation above the frost line as well as some 2x4s nailed down to the concrete walls. We are going to finish the basement and remove all of the old insulation (we've seen some small skinks/lizards hiding in there as well as on our porch), and we want to use XPS boards along the walls before studding out and drywalling. insulation in your basement walls (or the floor over the basement) than you would to meet the code. Other recommendations: • Install at least 4" of uniform sized, washed stone underneath the slab floor. This acts as a capillary break to help prevent absorption of ground moisture. It also makes it easy to add a sub-slab ventilation.
Basements are part of a home, within the building boundary—despite repeated attempts over the years to disconnect them from the living space. Because of this, basements should be designed and constructed to be dry and conditioned. This is particularly important for basements that contain mechanical equipment—a situation that is practically guaranteed in buildings that have a basement. Mechanical systems must not be installed outside of a home in unconditioned space unless there is no practical alternative.
A dry basement or crawlspace is less likely to have pests and termites. If a basement is being used for storage or as living space, it needs to be kept dry to avoid mold and dust mites. The most important strategies for keeping basements dry are those of groundwater and rainwater control. Once these groundwater control strategies are employed, the basement should be insulated to minimize cold surfaces that can condense water and elevate local relative humidity.
Basement walls should be insulated with non-water sensitive insulation that prevents interior air from contacting cold basement surfaces—the concrete structural elements and the rim joist framing. Allowing interior air that is usually full of moisture, especially in the humid summer months to touch cold surfaces will cause condensation and wetting, rather than the desired drying. The structural elements of below grade walls are cold concrete is in direct contact with the ground —especially when insulated on the interior.
Of particular concern are rim joist areas—which are cold not only during the summer but also during the winter. This is why it is important that interior insulation assemblies be constructed as airtight as possible. The best insulations to use are foam based and should allow the foundation wall assembly to dry inwards. The foam insulation layer should generally be vapor semi impermeable greater than 0.
The greater the permeance the greater the inward drying and therefore the lower the risk of excessive moisture accumulation. Up to two inches of unfaced extruded polystyrene R , four inches of unfaced expanded polystyrene R , three inches of closed cell medium density spray polyurethane foam R and ten inches of open cell low density spray foam R meet these permeability requirements. In certain situations, foil-faced insulations may be used on the interior of foundation walls.
However, such requires careful attention to supplemental moisture management strategies. Half-inch gypsum board usually provides sufficient ignition barrier check your local building code. When this ignition barrier is supported on a stud wall, the cavities of this wall may be filled with supplemental insulation. It is important that the airtight foam insulation assembly be continuous behind the framed wall.
No interior vapor barriers should be installed in order to permit inward drying. Basement floor slabs are best insulated underneath with rigid insulation: both extruded or expanded polystyrene have been widely used with success. Although the energy savings of sub-slab insulation are not as significant as basement wall insulation, such insulations do offer a significant improvement in comfort and moisture damage resistance including against summertime condensation. When slab insulation is provided, a sheet polyethylene vapor barrier should be located over the rigid insulation and in direct contact with the concrete slab.
As the slab will only be able to dry upward, the slab should be allowed to dry before finishes are applied. Impermeable interior floor finishes such as vinyl floor coverings should also be avoided.
A sand layer should never be installed between the sheet polyethylene vapor barrier and the concrete slab. Sand layers located between the slab and the vapor barrier can become saturated with water, which are then unable to dry downwards through the vapor barrier.
In this scenario, drying can only occur upward through the slab which typically results in damaged interior floor finishes Lstiburek, Skip to main content.
Building Science Corporation. May 20, Basements should be insulated on their perimeters—they should not be insulated between floors. Walls Basement walls should be insulated with non-water sensitive insulation that prevents interior air from contacting cold basement surfaces—the concrete structural elements and the rim joist framing.
Floors Basement floor slabs are best insulated underneath with rigid insulation: both extruded or expanded polystyrene have been widely used with success. Upcoming Events Renovation and Rehabilitation. Building Science Fundamentals. Related Books. BSD Understanding Basements. BSI Slab Happy. BA Basement Insulation Systems. BA Renovating Your Basement. Download 1.